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Monday, July 21, 2014

A Close Escape


I stood next to the remains of the Gold Creek Fruit Stand when a red SUV skidded to a stop. A woman jumped out, hands to her head in shock. “This was a valley icon,” she gasped. She jumped back in her vehicle and sped off before I could ask her name. Within a week, a firestorm would rip through nearly 400 square miles of our lives. How many other icons would be gone by the end of the week?


On Thursday, July 17th, I was supposed to catch the early train to Seattle and rendezvous with some long lost friends at a Tori Amos concert. But as the fire came over the ridge and finger-sized bits of burning ash started to fall from the sky, I ditched my plans and grabbed the water hoses. All day long, Tori’s cover of Bruce Springsteen’s “I’m on Fire” rolled through my head.

Earlier that morning I had asked the firefighters at the end of the road, “Do I need to leave?” I was told no, South Fork Gold Creek was fine. I called the Ranger Station, they said DNR was in charge of the fire. I called DNR. The woman told me Gold Creek was not on fire and when I responded that indeed it was, she told me to call 911, despite the fact that Gold Creek had been on fire for four days and had fire crews already there. I called the local police station instead and was told that an officer would be around to notify residents if there was any escalation. Still feeling nervous and frustrated at the lack of communication between agencies, I posted my cell phone number in large letters on the door of my garage before walking the property.

My neighbor relayed some information she had learned that morning. If the fire jumped the line on that plateau across the road, they would cut the power. I decided that would be my signal to leave.

After a morning of soaking down dry areas and dispersing slash piles, I felt sick from the heat and smoke. The power was still on. I was still safe, I thought. I double checked my “Run Away” bag and ensured that the truck was packed, and then sat down on the couch to rest…and promptly fell asleep.

I first saw the Gold Creek Fruit Stand on our virgin voyage into the Methow Valley years ago. The lights were always on and people said sometimes music was playing, but the fruit stand had been closed for years. A ghost fruit stand. A Methow Valley icon.

The sound of a train woke me up. The trees were thrashing wildly; sunlight had turned a terrifying shade of orange, the sky no longer existed. It was replaced with a tornado made of fire. The power was still on, not even that was a dependable means of knowing when to leave, because now was looking like a good time to run. The phone beeped. A text message from my neighbor, Lindsey Ashford. “You Out” was all it said. Their vehicles sped past my house and within seconds the dogs and I were right behind them.

A carved Sasquatch stands guard on the South Fork of Gold Creek. One eye is missing, giving him the flirtatious look of a wink. He is there every evening to welcome us home. He has made the cover of my holiday cards, party invitations, and at one point was my Uncle Dave’s facebook profile photo.  
I hoped the Sasquatch would still be there. The fire had jumped Gold Creek Road, I was unsure if the passage was safe. The firecrew that had been at the bridge earlier was no where in sight. Flipping a u-turn, I went back on South Fork Gold Creek, the Sasquatch giving me a wink goodbye. Coming out by way of McFarland Creek, I quickly drove back up highway 153 and watched the firestorm engulf Vinegar Ridge behind my home. I stood next to my truck and sobbed helplessly, certain there would be no home to return to. Certain the Sasquatch was gone.  

Forty eight hours later, we returned. The Sasquatch welcomed us home. We still had a house. Three hundred homes gone, hundreds of families displaced. We were unreasonably, irrationally lucky.

Days later my phone beeped a text message. An emergency weather alert for a flash flood. I laughed hysterically. Bring on the floodwaters and put out these raging fires. I would have preferred a reverse 911 for firestorms.


Monday, July 7, 2014

Chicken Quinoa Salad



Arugula (I used drunken lady lettuce from my garden)
Chopped fresh parsley
Chopped fresh mint
Sweet grape tomatoes
Quinoa cooked with the skin of a lemon
Chicken, browned in a bit of olive oil with garlic, salt, pepper and oregano
Toasted pine nuts
Squeeze of lemon for dressing

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Foggy Dew - Merchants Basin - Angels Staircase - Boiling Lake - Horsehead Pass - Eagle Lakes

Foggy Dew - Merchants Basin - Angels Staircase - Boiling Lake - Horsehead Pass - Eagle Lakes



I woke up to a strange ripping sound and a shower of ice crystals in my face.
“Joanna, wake up, the tent is falling down.”
In response, my eyelids squeezed shut even tighter as I burrowed deeper into the warmth of my sleeping bag.
“Joanna…”
With a grunt I shoved only a single hand out of my warm cocoon and fumbled around until my fingers found the faulty pole and pushed it back upward, causing another cascade of ice crystals to shower down. Joe secured the pole back into position with a Velcro loop.
Or, I assume he secured it. I was still fully cocooned in my mummy bag, eyes shut tight to the early morning sun cresting over Foggy Dew Ridge.
The day before was a steady climb past boulder fields, tumbling springs and Foggy Dew Falls. The trail turned nearly vertical at the lip of Merchants Basin. The meadow bowl was filled with sunshine and soft green grass, the edges of the basin lined with snow. A few yellow glacier lilies spotted the landscape.
After a leisurely spell in the meadow, the trail slowly climbed up a ridge to overlook Cooney Lake, still locked in by snow. A sharp turn to the left took us along the ridgeline and rewarded our steady uphill climbing with positive altitude and angelic views looking down the valley towards Stehekin.
Storm clouds flowed through the corridors of mountain peaks, sunlight slashed holes through the darkened masses, illuminating the valley below. The wind tore words of awe from our lips and we bent our heads in acquiesce to descend Angel’s Staircase into yet another high altitude meadow, this one as darkened by storm clouds as the other was brightened with sun.
The evening was quiet, yet cold. The night colder still. And in the morning, the sun – and a fallen tent pole – revealed icy stalactites that had formed overnight on the fabric directly above my head.
Our companions, Scott Rudy and Sandee McKinney of Hayden, Idaho, spoke of “backpacker amnesia” as we packed up camp and shouldered our bags for the next leg of the trail. Backpacker amnesia usually occurs the morning after, when the beauty of the surroundings overrides any muscle aches or coldness that linger from the night before.
Boiling Lake appeared suddenly, still and tranquil. I had read that bubbling springs create the illusion of boiling in the lake when seen from above. As we climbed Horsehead Pass I kept looking down to witness this phenomenon, but the surface of the lake remained calm and serene.
The views from Horsehead Pass were just as breathtaking as Angel’s Staircase, only this time it was the scenery and not the wind that took our breath away.
More flowers lined the path along the Eagle Lakes trail. The colors crossed the spectrum of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet.
Our day ended much too soon, along this epic trail in the lower valley. Early summer, in that space in between the melting of the snows and the heat of high summer, this trail is resplendent with wildflowers. In the fall, the larch trees are the draw, their golden glow magnificent in autumn. A trail worthy of many visits.