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Thursday, May 31, 2018

Remembering Pete Joseph





This Memorial Day, May 28, would have been the 94th birthday of Pierre ‘Pete’ Joseph. Pete led an astounding life, a portion of which was portrayed in the 1951 Broadway play and subsequent film, “Stalag 17”. The film is a comedy/thriller about American airmen in a German World War II prisoner of war camp, based on an award-winning play written by two survivors, Donald Bevan and Edmund Trzcinski who were imprisoned at Stalag 17 with Pete. The play and film were the inspiration for the much-loved television series, “Hogan’s Heroes”.
Pete was born to Susan and Ed Joseph at their home near Antoine Creek. He attended Pateros High School with his cousins Mary Marchand Miller and Lewis Miller. Pete lettered in every sport and was known as the fastest runner in Okanogan County. He could be seen running home after sports practices.
In December 1941 the US entered World War II. The experience of a country at war was unlike what it is today. For the entirety of my own life, the US has been actively involved in some conflict around the world…but I wouldn’t know it if I didn’t read the news. I pay low prices for gasoline, and there is no limit to the number of computers, bicycles, shoes, silks, and nylons that I can purchase. When I walk into Hank’s, there is always a wide selection of meat, cheese, butter, milk, jams, and jellies. This was not the case during WWII. Every person in the country was affected by food and fuel rations and nightly blackout efforts.
It was during this time of uncertainty that Pete graduated in 1942 and joined the US Army Air Corps. He completed flight training and aerial gunnery practice before deploying to England as part of the massive buildup of troops for D-Day.  
But before D-Day arrived, Pete’s B-17 bomber was fatally hit on March 8, 1944 over Berlin. From his gunner position in the ball turret, Pete bailed and hurtled through the air with a force so great that his boots were ripped from his feet. After free falling three miles, Pete’s chute deployed. As he drifted in the dark closer to ground, his chute tangled in a tree, and Pete hung thirty feet above ground where he was spotted by German civilians who cut him down and handed him over to the Gestapo.
Pete was held in solitary confinement for days while the Gestapo tried to guess his ancestry: Japanese, Filipino, Chinese, or Mexican? The Native American refused to speak, giving only name, rank, and serial number. He was transported to Luft Stalag 17B, near Krems, Austria. Food was scarce, guards were sadistic, and the overcrowded conditions forced the 30,000 prisoners to sleep three to a bunk.
Over a year after his capture, on April 8, 1945, Pete was gathered up with 4000 other American soldiers in Stalag 17 and forced to march 281 miles to a prison camp near Bernau, Austria.  It took them three weeks of marching to reach the camp site. Just days later, on May 3, 1945, Patton’s 13th Armored Division arrived and captured the guards. Pete and his fellow prisoners were evacuated to France. Many years later as Pete shared a conversation with his friend and fellow Paterosian, Ed Holbrook, he discovered that Ed was one of the troops that liberated the Stalag 17 marchers that day.

Pete was discharged with honors in October 1945.  His outfit, the 379th Bombardment Group, took some of the heaviest losses in the war. Pete was one of the lucky ones who was able to return home. Pete married Lillian Dick, had six children, and worked as a supervisor on the Grand Coulee, Chief Joseph, and Wells Dams. Pete passed away in 1991 and buried with full military honors at St. Mary’s Mission on the Colville Reservation.
This article originally appeared in the Methow Valley News, 23 May 2018, and has been updated to show Ed Holbrook's role in the liberation of Pete Joseph and his fellow Americans from Stalag 17


Hiking Methow Valley - Pipestone Canyon


We have a small window of marvelous color now that the mud has retreated and before dust season settles in. This in-between season, some call it spring, is fleetingly magical. Sunlight illuminates each fold in topography, a dappled green landscape of lustrous light and shadow. Rainstorms fill a maze of hills and valleys before crashing into rocky crags of a high mountain peak. Flowers bloom in different hues and scents: the lupine, balsamroot, indian paintbrush, wild rose, shooting stars, buttercups, blue bells, and a myriad more cover hillsides in swaths of color.

This is the best time to enjoy many lower elevation trails in the valley: before the heat of summer arrives, and rattlesnakes emerge. One such trail is Pipestone Canyon.

Most users access Pipestone Canyon and the Rim Trail near Campbell Lake from the Winthrop side. Unfortunately, Lester Road is filled with water and mud, easily eroded by wheels. I also have unconfirmed reports that the Rim Trail is forming new canyons with the seasonal runoff. Last year I noticed a whole section of the trail gave way to a fresh geological transformation.

A different approach is to hike Pipestone Canyon from the bottom up. To get to the lower trailhead, take Highway 20 towards the Loup. Travel three miles from the WA-153/WA-20 intersection before turning left onto Upper Beaver Creek Road. After 2.5 miles, take another left onto Balky Hill Road. Travel for half a mile and find a closed, unlocked gate on the right side of the road next to a ‘no parking’ sign. Close the gate after driving through. The road is unmaintained and rocky. Travel along this road for another half mile to a wide parking area marked with a Discovery Pass sign.
From the trailhead, you can see two distinct drainages - head towards the one on the right. The trail follows the curvature of a hill on the east side of a grassy meadow with pockets of wetland areas. I think this is one of the more dramatic approaches to Pipestone Canyon, as the steep canyon walls rise like sentries around the bend in the meadow.

It doesn’t take a geologist to see the dramatic storyline embedded in the walls of Pipestone Canyon. But it does take a geologist to decipher and translate the language of stone.
Starting in the summer of 1939, Dr. Julian Barksdale began studying the geography of the Methow Valley. At times, he worked as a cook for a pack-horse outfit to gain transportation into the backcountry. Dr. Barksdale never published his work, stating that the remoteness and ruggedness of the Methow Valley, combined with the complex geology was too “enormous a project” to undertake. Still, his findings were deemed valuable knowledge and in 1975 the DNR published a copy of his work.

The 1975 DNR report includes evidence of temporary periods of lake development, when fossils of plant life were preserved. Using Barksdale observations partnered with 1950s studies of fossilized plant life, the report dated the Pipestone Canyon formation to the Paleocene epoch, 66 to 56 million years ago…while at the same time noting that some formations contained evidence from the Cretaceous period, over 100 million years ago.

Over the years, geologists have studied the area in greater detail and found more samples dating to the late Cretaceous period. Geologists now know that the Pipestone Canyon Formation contains vast amounts of data showing tectonic plate movement, folding, fault lines, and glacial carving. A simple google search of “Pipestone Canyon Formation” yields a multitude of articles describing this geologic drama. Or, simply take a walk and enjoy the view for yourself.
This article originally appeared in the Methow Valley News, 09 May 2018

Hiking Methow Valley - Golden Doe



I love the winter. I love the spring. I’m not a big fan of mud season.
Mud season is a tease with reassuring sunny skies above and treacherous footing below. Either the trails are socked in with mushy snow, or stream crossings are impassable by high water torrents of turbulent runoff.

There are not many options for shoulder season hiking, but the lower valley offers up some hidden gems that are best enjoyed before the heat of summer, and before rattlesnakes become active.
One such gem is the Golden Doe unit of the Methow Wildlife Area. Nestled beneath the McClure scar, in a narrow hanging valley the Golden Doe area is 1,514 acres of shoulder season beauty, complete with mountain views, riparian areas, forested trails, and open meadows.

Starting from the Methow Valley Community Center, set your odometer to zero and head down Twisp Carlton road. The hidden driveway is five miles from the community center, on the right side of the road. The driveway takes a sharp turn to the left and goes uphill to a parking area in front of a haunted cabin. You’ll see what I mean when you get there.

Follow your ears to the sound of Alder creek and find a locked gate with a pedestrian-sized opening. Follow the jeep trail up a gently sloping hill, keeping Alder Creek on your right. The trail turns left and opens into a wide sweeping meadow encircled by small rounded hills. The trail may disappear into the grasses. Look for it to reappear on the hillside to the west. Follow the trail up and over this hill, where it becomes apparent once more along a barbed wire fence.

At a quarter mile, Alder Creek widens into a large wetland area, full of redwing blackbirds. The trail continues up above the wetlands for another quarter mile before it bisects two hillsides to enter the small valley at the base of Mt. McClure. Here, the trail splits. Turn right and travel north for forested hiking and views of McClure. Turn left and travel south for open meadow hiking.
The south bound trail follows the base of the hillside until the hanging valley spills into open farmland. At this point, follow the trail east up and over a small saddle. The trail again disappears into the grasslands as it drops down into a meadow. Two deep craters whisper of glacial lakes long gone. This meadow is typically full of mountain bluebirds in the early spring morning. Walk around the edge of the meadow and stay along the base of the hillside, traveling north for about a mile to intersect once again with the beginning of the trail near Alder Creek.

Golden Doe is part of the larger 31,000-acre Methow Wildlife Area. Beginning in 1941, the USFS began purchasing private parcels in an effort to contain damage done by mule deer on local farmland. The seven parcels form a migration corridor and provide protected habitat for other wildlife, including songbirds and salmon. All seven units are open to the public for wildlife viewing, hunting, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, and cross-country skiing. The seven units are Big Buck, Big Valley, Early Winters, Methow, Rendezvous, Texas Creek, and Golden Doe. For detailed maps of each area, visit Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife https://wdfw.wa.gov/lands/wildlife_areas/methow/
This article originally appeared in the Methow Valley News, 2 May 2018

Rite of Spring


This article appeared in the Methow Valley News on 11 April 2018

I imagine Igor Stravinsky composed his Rite of Spring (La Sacre) during spring, while observing a landscape emerging from winter. Perhaps he listened to a gentle wind blow through the woods – the opening lines of the woodwinds. Flurries of snow grew into dissonant surges of pouring rain as harmonies fractured like ice floes breaking free from the river banks. And then…the rain and wind ebb. The landscape is soft once more, green sprouts push up through decomposed detritus, steadily stretching towards the sun. A walk across a snow filled meadow may have inspired the alternating intervals of an octatonic scale: a half step in a shaded surface still firm beneath his foot, followed by a whole step when he sunk through a patch softened by the sun. Stravinksky must have navigated a muddy sloped path as he scribbled ostinatos across the page, flowing rivulets of snowmelt, seemingly haphazard but all merging eventually towards the siren call of the river. He writes, "I was guided by no system whatever in Le Sacre du printemps. When I think of the other composers of that time … how much more theoretical their music seems than Le Sacre. I had only my ear to help me. I heard and I wrote what I heard. I am the vessel through which Le Sacre passed." 
Listen here: 



The sunny hills of McFarland Creek Lamb Ranch melt out early in the season, no doubt something the Romney sheep appreciate. Since the 2014 Carlton Complex fire rearranged the landscape, McFarland Creek flows with more strength through the ranchland, creating a steady roar between the house and the barn. Alfred and Callie, Maremma sheepdogs, greet owner Katie Haven at the pasture fence. Freshly shorn sheep lazily lounge about in the spring sun, bags of shaved wool lean against the barn wall. The new barn went up shortly after the old barn went down in 2014. The new barn is filled with natural light, the siding on the top half of the building is clear. “If I don’t shut the door, the sheep will hang out in here all day,” Katie explained – I guess the sheep like the new barn as much as everyone else.
Professional sheep shearer, Martin Dibble, visited the McFarland Creek Lamb Ranch the day before, administering haircuts. You can watch a video of Martin in action on YouTube, entitled “Martin Dibble Shearinga Sheep”, the sheep looks incredibly relaxed and happy, like I do when I’m getting a haircut…or a massage…or on vacation.

Katie used to transfer the wool for processing to her shop on Poorman’s Creek, but in the last year she and partner Bill Tackman built a new multipurpose building on the ranch that includes a big airy space for processing garden produce, a walk in cooler cooled by creek water, a woodshop, an office, and a specialized set up for Katie to wash and dye the wool.
Deep tubs line one wall, with cold and hot water faucets. The hot water is supplied by a tankless on-demand hot water heater. Large glass jars hold dried flowers and roots that Katie uses in her natural dyes. McFarland Creek Lamb Ranch wool is available for sale in all forms: raw, roving, batting, and spun yarn dyed with natural dyes.  Katie’s yarn can be found online at www.thelambranch.com.

Monday, May 28, 2018

Wandering Betties, Raven Ridge

An old logging/mining road along Raven's Ridge between Gold Creek and Libby Creek drainages



Monday, May 7, 2018