Tenacious Crossword

There is a valley character who I call "Crossword". He always has a stack of crossword puzzles that he's working on all over town: in Hank's deli, at the laundromat, at the garage, in the library, at the bakery...

While waiting for my snow tires to be put on, I walked over to the bakery and took up at my customary table by a window with full view of the sidewalk and people coming and going. Crossword was at the table next to me, pencil poised in mid air over a stack of puzzles freshly torn out from various newspapers. As I opened up my laptop, he leaned over conspiratorially,

Crossword: I was over at Hank's and I asked a woman for a hug.

Me: How'd that work out for ya?

Crossword: She said, "ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!!" Hahahaha! (slapping his knee)

Me: Did you expect a different outcome?

Crossword: Are you kidding me? Hahahahaha!!

He continued to chuckle to himself, his head and shoulders shaking in laughter as he filled in the little squares of the puzzle. After a time, he slowly got up, put on his coat, and shuffled with great effort out the door. Still smiling and waving as he left. I watched through the window to make sure he got where he was going.

Most people passed him quickly, not giving the old bent man a second look as he shuffled along, carefully concentrating on each step. He paused at the curb, and reached out a hand - curled and gnarled by years of work - and placed it on a hood of a car to keep his balance as he shuffled a few steps forward.

A young man took long quick strides for the bakery, passing Crossword. The young man put his hand on the bakery door, pushed it open, and then stopped short as a sudden look of awareness and concern furrowed his brow. He stepped away from the door and turned around, his back to me, and the door now shut. He greeted Crossword, generic words passed between two strangers and Crossword waved him off with one hand, his other sliding along the cold metal of a car hood.

The young man pulled his phone out of his pocket, and frowned down at it, standing on the sidewalk - bakery seemingly forgotten. As Crossword made slow progress, the young man kept discreetly glancing up from his phone. He took small steps that to passerby would look like a distracted movement, but he was keeping a mindful distance between himself and Crossword. As soon as Crossword reached his destination and was inside the next shop, the young man smiled, pocketed his phone, and rushed into the bakery - where he ordered lunch to go and rushed back out.

In a world of name-calling and frustration with everyone around us, it was a gift to see someone stop and carefully consider the level of assistance someone might need. From my vantage point, Crossword turned down help because he wants to stay mobile and independent as long as he has the ability to do so. The young man respectfully gave him space and a sense of privacy - while ensuring Crossword met his goal. Let's all be both of them - tenacious when we are older, and kind when we are younger.

Archaeology Project, MVIC

This article originally appeared in the Methow Valley News, 11 October 2017

Hozomeen Mountain cuts into the sky above the cold waters of Ross Lake. Jack Kerouac referenced this North Cascade National Park peak in The Dharma Bums, "Hozomeen, Hozomeen, the most mournful mountain I've ever seen". In another of his books, Desolation Angels, the author contemplates the questions of life while gazing to the summit, “Even Hozomeen will crack and fall apart, nothing lasts.”

Archeologist Bob Mierendorf studied quarries at Hozomeen Mountain for the past two decades, finding a 10,000 year long record of human activity etched and piled on the landscape. You can learn more about his findings in a youtube video produced by North Cascades National Park, “Hozomeen: A story about chert, identity, and landscape” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyqjLqJoTWo

Hozomeen chert, a flint like mineral found exclusively in the North Cascades, was used by First Peoples to make very distinctive stone tools. The name “Hozomeen” is an interior Salish word that means, “sharp, like a sharp knife”. Salish is a geographically broad language group in the Pacific Northwest made up from different dialects, including Methow. The placename, “Hozomeen”, is a constant attachment to the place and the resources found there – bringing together social, linquistic, and archeology history. Original placenames are often descriptive terms that connect people and history to a place.

A stone tool made of Hozomeen chert was found at a private residence on French Creek. The owner contacted Rich Davis, Archaeology Advisor for the Methow Valley Interpretive Center (MVIC) and Methow Field Institute (MFI), and generously agreed to allow Rich to study the stone tool as a research effort to document early history in the Methow Valley. The tool is impressive in size and detail. The age has been determined to be at least three to four thousand years old, based on the heavily patinated sheen on the surface of the tool.

Other found objects in the Methow Valley include projectile points that are of the same style found broken off in the thigh of Kennewick Man – the Cascade Willow Leaf style. Tool styles represent cultures that thrived within a specific period of time. Tool styles combined with radiocarbon dates of surrounding layers have dated some sites in the Methow Valley to be 9,000 years old.

In the lower Methow Valley, Rich has compared present day landscape with geological surveys and maps completed in the late 1800s. Using this record, Rich believes he has located “Ballou’s Crossing” on the Methow River that may intersect the Chiliwist Trail, a major trade route through the Cascade region used by the First Peoples. Along the Methow River near this intersection, Rich discovered fire cracked rock and debris left over from the production of chipped stone tools, indicating that section of the river bank was used as a ‘workshop’ to create tools eons ago.

Rich and MVIC and MFI have partnered with Aaron Neuman, archeologist for the History/Archaeology department of the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation (CCT) to create a photo record of Native American artifacts found in the Methow Valley. All we have left is stone tools and oral history to recreate a record of the First People who once lived, thrived, and died here.

Owners of artifacts are encouraged to share valuable historic information by contacting Rich and allowing him to photograph and record found objects. Privacy is assured and no other obligation is necessary. Sensitive information will be kept confidential. 

Owners have the option to keep the objects, loan them for exhibit, or donate the found objects to either the MVIC, or the History/Archaeology department of CCT. Please contact Rich Davis: davisrich@hotmail.com, 509-997-2284

Elders Celebration Dinner at TwispWorks

This article originally appeared in the Methow Valley News, 27 September 2017

Recently, on the TwispWorks campus, the History/Archaeology Program of the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation held the “Honoring Our Elders Celebration Dinner.” The yearly event recognizes the invaluable contributions made by Elders, traditional practitioners, and informants who assist in recording the history of the Colville Tribes.

Citizens Drum Group performing the Honor Song

Willie Womer, Culture Committee Chairman of the Colville Business Council, kicked off the event by relaying a message from his mother, Kathy Womer. She regretted not being there as she had, “too many arrow tips in the fire,” and sent her son Willie in her place. Willie read his mother’s story written from the perspective of someone standing on the crest of a hill who was overlooking the reed and bark homes in the Methow Valley below. The people gathered berries, fished from the streams, and hunted deer to sustain them through winter. One day, people with “hair of sunshine and eyes of sky,” came to the valley with “logs of thunder.” One group fled north, the other to the east. Her short story speaks of a utopian life in the Methow Valley, and the fear and grief of loss when they were driven out.

Mary Iglesia of the Methow Valley Interpretive Center and the Methow Field Institute thanked the Elders for hosting the event as, “representatives of the First People of the valley.” She expressed gratitude on behalf of the MVIC for “collaboration and inspiration” that the Elders provide in the MVIC exhibits and community events.

Guy Moura, program manager of the History/Archaeology Program and Tribal Historic Preservation Officer, spoke about collaborative efforts with different federal agencies to protect the environment, document archaeological sites, and preserve the history of Methow traditional territory. The department played a big role in halting mining interests that recently threatened the headwaters of the Methow River. The History/Archaeology Program works to represent tribal interests by documenting the history of the Methow people with names, places, and stories. The knowledge the Elders share establishes sovereign rights in traditional lands and preserves historical the record.

Terry Charley

Methow descendent Terry Charley led the prayer before and after the meal. As he began, Terry shared stories from his father, “My father wanted to come home to the Methow, and cried because he could not be here. My father would speak for hours a day, sharing stories of our people.” One story spoke of the gift of continuity Elders provide. Terry encouraged people to continue to share their stories to keep their knowledge alive in others. As the prayers were offered in song, all the Elders chimed in – a simultaneous melody.

Dinner was catered by Roxanne Campbell-Rose. A mouthwatering spread of perfectly baked salmon, roasted turkey, stew with root vegetables, and meatloaf greeted diners. The entrees were followed by a dozen different salads, fry bread, rolls, and countless fruit pies. Elders received honoraria for their help with the History/Archeology Program of the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation.

Elaine Timentwa Emerson and Cyndy Miller 

Squash Pie

2 c squash
1/4 c sugar/ honey
1/8 c molasses
1/4 t salt
1/4 t cinnamon
1/4 t ginger pwd
1/4 t cardamom
1 T. Fresh grated ginger
1/2 c cream
1/2 c sour cream
2 eggs yolks ---egg whites set aside

Blend everything (except the egg whites) in a food processor.
Whip the egg whites in separate bowl and fold into the pie mixture.
Spread evenly into prepared crust.
Bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake for an additional 30-45 minutes.

Single crust pie recipe:

5 T cold butter
3 T cold coconut oil
1 cup white flour
1/3 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 t salt
1 t sugar (optional)
4 T ice water

Cut butter and coconut oil into small cubes. Whisk together flours, salt, and sugar. Cut butter and coconut oil into dry ingredients until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Using fork, toss flour/butter mixture with water, one tablespoon at a time until dough comes together. Using floured hands, roll into ball, then flatten on lightly dusted work service. Evenly roll out dough before transferring to pie pan. Par-bake for 10 minutes before adding filling. 

Book Reviews: The Big Burn, and, The River Of Life

This article originally appeared in the Methow Valley News, 13 September 2017

With recent events in the valley that raise discussions about conservation and use of natural resources, combined with climate change discussions of longer, intense fire seasons, this summer seemed like the perfect time to read “The Big Burn” by Timothy Egan paired with “The River of Life: Sustainable Practices of Native Americans and Indigenous Peoples” by Dr. Michael Marchand et al.

“The Big Burn” covers the political atmosphere leading up to the catastrophic fires of 1910 that burned across several states in the Pacific Northwest. Author Timothy Egan delves into the efforts of Teddy Roosevelt to conserve America’s forests during an industrial race to claim the rich resources of the West. Roosevelt operated on two main principles: enact practices to ensure a lasting, sustainable harvest of natural resources, and preserve America’s natural treasures for the enjoyment of all Americans. Roosevelt established the National Forest Service, which did not receive public support until after the 1910 fires and the heroic efforts of the first Rangers to save people and towns.

Roosevelt’s efforts to raise awareness about conservation issues was met with strong resistance by oligarchs who stood to profit from unrestrained invasion and thievery of Native American lands. Treaties were ignored as railroad and timber barons focused on immediate profits, not sustainable practices. In the summer of 1910, dry lightning started a handful of fires, while sparks from railcars started others. Individuals angry with Roosevelt and the newly formed Forest Service purposely set fire to clear the land – if there were no trees, the Forest Service had no trees to claim. In late August, fires started by both nature and humans merged into a colossal inferno– destroying towns and homes indiscriminately. After the fire, public opinion turned to support conservation efforts. Many public policies were enacted that are still in place today.

“The River of Life: Sustainable Practices of Native Americans and Indigenous Peoples” goes deep to provide illustrative context describing different resource management ideas between the western world view and Native American traditions. Using water as a metaphor, Dr. Marchand and other contributors discuss sustainable practices that allow communities to make choices that fit within the constraints of the available resources of the land. Local and regional communities and planners can benefit from a collaborative relationship rooted in the intergenerational knowledge provided by First Peoples who lived in one place for thousands of years.

Dr. Marchand is a local author and chairman of the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation. I highly recommend his book. Although it is an academic publication, the numerous illustrations, real life stories, and traditional metaphors make this book an engaging read. The cover art, by ledger artist Cheryl Grunlose, is beautiful enough to keep the book prominently displayed.

Next up on my reading list is E. Richard Hart’s “Lost Homeland: The Methow Tribe and the Columbia Reservation” paired with Christine Cassano’s “When the Sun Reaches the Mountain.” Hart’s book delves into the history of the Methow people and the creation of the reservations, while Cassano’s story illustrates her life on that same reservation in the 1940s and 50s.

Elaine Timentwa Emerson, standing, speaking at the Shafer Museum during a book signing for "Lost Homeland" by E. Richard Hart. Seated up front, Mark Miller and E. Richard Hart.

Finding Zen in the lower Methow Valley

This column originally appeared in the Methow Valley News, 23 August 2017

You can find Zen in the lower valley. It’s true — driving through the “Met-Low”, there are two Adopt-A-Highway signs marked, “Zen.” These signs don’t refer to the gentle swell of ripening fruit upon branches, or the clean spring water rushing from their alpine sources down steep-walled canyons to unite with the Methow River, or the rolling hills bathed in sunshine. “Zen” would be an accurate description of all of the peaceful crevices found in the lower valley.

“Zen” — in this case — is a lower valley resident: a whirlwind of energetic charm, hard-working, tough-as-nails woman. I always learn something new and useful whenever I run into Zen. She’s like a cup of black coffee: strong and invigorating.

Zen Brandon runs a small farm and nursery in the lower valley along Highway 153. For years, she noticed the Adopt-A-Highway sign near her home. She had never seen any volunteers cleaning up the roadside, and did not recognize the name of the business noted on the sign. When she started her nursery and farm store, Zen’s Gardens, she decided her business would be responsible for keeping that section of highway clean, and contacted Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT) to get started.

Zen started cleaning up her section of highway, but then the Carlton Complex Fires roared through the valley, and putting up a sign alongside the road for Zen’s Gardens sat on the back burner for WSDOT while the agency addressed other pertinent issues. By the time WSDOT was ready to put up a sign, Zen had to put aside the nursery business, but was committed to keeping her section of highway clean. As a result, the signs were shortened to “Zen.”

As she spent time cleaning the highway, Zen noticed that it really only needed to be done twice a year and, for the most part, stayed clean. “You can really tell a difference between an area that hasn’t been cleaned in five years, and one that gets picked up even just once a year,” she said. “You’d be amazed at what you find. Once I found a splitting maul — you’d think someone would notice losing a splitting maul!”

The Adopt-A-Highway program provides volunteer opportunities and offers recognition for businesses, groups, families or the memory of a loved one. WSDOT provides orange vests, safety cones and trash bags. Volunteers tidy up 2 miles of highway at least twice a year, and file activity reports with WSDOT. The activity reports are simple and allow WSDOT to maintain insurance coverage for volunteers, while keeping track of how often a section of highway is cleaned. The activity report also notifies WSDOT when and where to pick up full bags of litter.

To participate, contact the Okanogan County coordinator, Shellee Ludeman, by phone at (509) 667-2800, or by email at ludemas@wsdot.wa.gov. More information about the program can be found at http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Operations/adoptahwy.

The website offers information and safety tips for volunteers. For drivers, please be mindful of volunteers alongside the road working to keep our valley beautiful. Slow down, and give them safe space.

Origami memory

That moment
when a memory stuck in time
breaks loose
hurtles headfirst
Pummels your gut
Clock hands spin
Time folds backwards
Layered origami moments
One dimension now cubed
Once painful, now considered
It's only been yesterday for twenty five years